Thursday, July 28, 2011

Paris, je t'aime

Paris in photos by Jennifer

 the view from our Paris window

 fresh legumes at the marche

 le fleur


Nico

 Paris blue, my favorite color (after green)

perpetually window shopping for Sienna Jane





camembert crepe lunch after a stroll through Marais  


 lover's locks above the Siene

 the best macaroons in the world, from Lauduree 

 a sixth floor walk up


(especially in Paris)


...Nick's blog to follow shortly with more photos of the important things: food and monuments

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Farewell Farm & Paris' Pleasures (part 1)


by Nicholas

The train to Paris took me through the French country side at high speeds. As small villages and large vineyards blurred by, I revisited some outstanding details of my time in Villeneuve Loubet. It will be hard to forget the uncertainty that I felt as I approached the farm for the first time. Strangely the farm house is located at the end of a maze-like suburban development. It is easy to doubt the existence of any farm at all upon arrival. 

Our shetler too stays salient. The past-its-prime caravan, or the simply old camper, was our resting place; good enough, we fenagled a bug net to keep out the French flies and better our comfort. In high winds the structure gently rocked.  

the caravan among vegetables ready for delivery 

Who could forget my relationship with the legumes, whom have literally grown close to me. I gave to them through my labor, and they gave to me through my mouth. The cycle of energy strengthens both our chances of survival. 

Although at times the vegetable delights do not fuel their own cultivation, I must admit to utilizing their nutrients for play too. The recreation I adore the most from my time in the South of France was afternoons spent at the river's swimming hole. Always accomanied by a troop of friends and a tray of food the wilderness retreat was a sanctuary and joy. 

Surrounded by tall lush trees and taller canyon walls the river funneled down a body-width shoot into a streaming pool. The waterfall projected the daring down its slide dropping them, free from rock, into the strong white waters below. Stone walls raised above three sides of the ride like falls providing at least a dozen points for cliff jumping. Tucked under the thunderous pour of the falls, an oasis of rock and moss peacefully lay protected by the pounding furry. I saw it and had a goal. 

"canyoning" a popular sport of hiking down canyon's rivers

Cliff diving began. Markus showed me the standard jump; then I explored the drop from spots with less room for error. His youthful energy climbing from pool, to atop rock, then releasing himself back to pool was exciting to match. Jennifer too joined in one act of the adrenalin rush!

Markus' "bunny dive"

My standard front flip

 After I joined Rhea and Jennifer, who were now dry, on a sunny rock and sat it on thier conversation. It was as if old friends continued flowing conversation from times past. Then over to six-year-old Mika and four-year-old Anouk who splashed and scream at the schockingly cold water's edge. Markus' daughter Mika, an English girl raised in France, spoke  English with an incredible London tone. In addition she spoke French with a flawless accent. Most incredible from a little lady with a lot of personality who could not yet even read! Time spent with Mika was most humbling for Jennifer and I when she corrected our lame French speech.
An afternoon with Mika in Nice was filled with French lessons!

Watching the girls was Fabian, a friend of the farm and father to Anouk. We discussed the differences of health care between countries, and I learned that the French face issues of inequality as well. The idealist views I had were brought into reality. I enjoyed a French cigarette with his wife Natasha. Once a street performing stilt walker she now paints (see her work! www.portraitpourtrait.com) The family, so generous, hosted gatherings at their home and showed us a warmth greater than the mediteranian climate.

As the sun set below the canyon walls a lone spot of sunshine reached a perch upon an overhung rock. There sat Fabrice (our host) with legs crossed, palms up, and eyes closed absorbing the sacred spot's last rays of illumination. Fabrice had earlier shared with me his few experiences with sweat lodges and Shamanic ceremonies. As he sat in the sun's shine I pondered the unearthly energy he had expereinced and still carried with him.

A chill replaced the warmth and it was now or never to reach the paradise behind the falls. The currents were too strong to swim through to the other side. The waters out of direct flow were also prevented access. I could't go left, I couldn't go right and straight through was not an option; horizontal movements were not the answer. Therefore, I climbed vertically atop the dropping flow. With the river I slid down the rock, into the air and beneath the water. The pressure pushed me down under the surface and away from the back of the falls. Still with the same breath I somersaulted to change direction under water. I swam down and towards the back of the pool where the water again became calm. I opened my eyes to see the white pressure from the falls dissipating above my head. A few strokes and I let my buoyancy take me to the still pool protected by the sounds and curtain of the falls. A few moments to myself before releasing my body back to the current of the river. As I return to the occupied world I hear Fabrices' voice, "Nico, your blood is hard!" This was a compliment to my achievement of overcoming the strength and bite of the 40ish degree Fahrenheit water. 

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

The Clumsy American Chef

by Jennifer

I walk into parked cars/trees/lamp posts. There's a little background for you. My second day in France, in Villeneuve Loubet, Nick and I decided to take bikes to le plage for a dip in the méditerranéen sea, but the bike was too big for me, and though I tried to ride it anyway, I only got to the first gravelly and hilled sharp turn before I fell off and dinged myself up. My knee was scraped and bleeding from the thick gravel combined with the high speed, the bike something had cut my foot, and trying to prevent my fall, I had gashes on my hand as well. And I hadn't even started working.

I have aprx. 20 cuts on either hand from the little knife I take with me everywhere on the farm to harvest vegetables and to tie tomates to show them the way to grow (one of which I cut to the vein in my wrist by a vast over exaggerated attempt to harvest an eggplant). I have blisters on the insides of my thumbs from raking. I have scrapes up and down my forearms from harvesting courgettes and about 10 splinters (most of which are still inside the skin) on my thumbs and fingertips from the eggplant. I'm bad at not getting hurt. During a break for lunch one day Markus the English farmer said to me, "You look like you've been on the frontlines".  All this plus a freak accident in the kitchen when a colander fell off the top of the fridge and cut my nose open. My body needed a break.

So I started spending less time in the fields and more time in the kitchen. At first I just made courgettes sauteed with onion, garlic, olive oil, and herbs de provence with the eggplant fries I've perfected and some nice strawberry salads. But everyone seemed to love my cooking...and I was happy to be  in the house where less bad things could happen to me (although the kitchen can be a dangerous place...proceed with caution). I decided to be more creative and really use all the ingredients on the farm. I made tomatoe sauce from scratch for the first time in my life. Nothing came out of a can, and better yet it all came from the farm. I made a strawberry tart out of practically nothing, on a celcius oven no less! Everyone was complimenting my cooking and I was eager to try new things. When our host had some friends over for lunch, me trying to keep up with the conversation in French, they looked at me and said, "c'est bon, this is very good. You made this?" and I was beaming that an actual French person complimented my cooking.

Sensing my adventurous culinary attitude and love of a challenge, the farmers started bringing me things to cook with. Peppers, tarragon, mint, and the biggest challenge of all: a giant, overgrown zucchini that was now a sort of...butternut squash? It had been sitting in the garden for months. I had passed over its girth many times and thought 'why don't they put this rotten thing in the compost?' Apparently they were waiting for the perfect chef. Markus brought it in to me and said, in a thick London accent, "Can you make like a pumpkin pie with this or something nice?". At first I thought he was joking. A pumpkin pie with an old zucchini? Turns out he wasn't.

I set off on the task after staring at the giant thing for a while. I decided to make a meal out of it, with a savory plat and a sweet pie dessert. I started cutting it up and boiled half of it, in small pieces, with some fresh ginger and sel de mer. The other I started cooking in a big pot with tomatoes, basil and garlic. When the boiled squash was soft I used a salad spoon to mash it like potatoes. I added sugar, cinnamon, butter, and nutmeg. I made a crust of oats with egg and flour to bind and popped it in the oven. I cleaned the seeds, added some salt, and toasted them.






Over the next few days I made many meals out of scratch: chili with eggplant substituted for meat, salads with sweet and savory dressings, gazpacho, and a 9 person feast starting with a hot and spicy tomato soup for an amuse bouche, with cous cous, courgettes with herbs and oil, eggplant Japan (an Asian inspired baked eggplant dish invented by Rhea), a grated carrot salad, and a chocolate brownie for dessert, drizzled in strawberry juice and ripe strawberry slices with mint leaves. It was decadent and amazing. I was proud. This day was the first of a new wwoofer, Nadej, from the north of France. She said to me, "I thought Americans were horrible cooks. You must be the best American chef." I beamed, knowing that I am not by a long shot the best American chef, but it's nice to hear all the same.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Les Legumes de Leroy

The fruits of our labor in Villeneuve Loubet...

 in the tomate tunnel
 Aubergines after a summer's rain
 10 kilos of tomates, market-ready
 Rhea's perfect tomate
  Nick's freshly harvested mini courgette - the restaurants will serve the entire vegetable on the plat, and stuff the edible flower with cheese
a weed, it's rich in Omega-3's and delightful in a salad
 not your mom's carrots
 fennel

 bags of fresh vegetables, farm fresh to your door
 these black peppers need no shaker
I guess this is why Americans call them eggplants. 

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Sundays, See-throughs, and Michael Jackson

by Jennifer 


Things I've discovered about France and French people:

  • The French love Michael Jackson. Not just a little bit, like "yeah, I love that guy", but a lot. On Bastille Day, France's day of independence, they had a small carnival in Villeneuve Loubet where, instead of French nationalist songs, or even French pop songs, 2 singer/dancers in sparkly dresses sang American songs such as "The Time of My Life" from Dirty Dancing and a ton of Michael Jackson. Instead of "Thriller" they sang "Chiller", which I think was a language issue and not an artistic choice. 1 of every 3 shops you go into will be playing Michael Jackson, and usually a whole CD, not just a mix. I'm not complaining, as I also love MJ, I'm just saying...it's a little weird.
  • French people cannot call me "Jennifer". No matter how many times I introduce myself as "Jennifer", it's only a mere moment until they call me "Jenny" and never stop. Why? My guess is that Jennifer "Jenny from the block" Lopez is to blame. Aye, dios mio.
  • The French like their clothes completely see-through. When I first happened upon a cute but transparent dress I thought "oh no, I can't get this. It's see through". Once I realized everything was this way (in both the south of France and Paris) I decided to give in. I bought a mostly see-through pink dress, and a see-through black top. They are both awesome, airy, and light. Viva la see-through!
  • Time really does equal money. On a Sunday, finally finding an open pharmacy after looking most of the day, I went to the counter to purchase my item for 6.90 euro, only to be told it was 10.90. "What?", I said, "that's not the price." to which the clerk replied "it is today, because it's Sunday, so everything is much more expensive." I put my item back. I will save 3 euros and pick it up tomorrow, at any pharmacy, because there are a million, and they are all opened on Mondays. I wonder then, do the employees get paid more to work on Sundays as well? I hope I didn't accidentally buy something else on a Sunday when the opposite of a sale happens. 

Monday, July 18, 2011

Sud de France in Photos

the church atop the hill in Villeneuve Loubet, where we live



a girl and a baguette 

a boy and creme brulee

Rhea, the other wwoofer on the farm. "the warrior"

le mais


Markus the English farmer and Nico, at the river

taking the crops to le marche (market)



Jennifer's new best friend